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Discussion in 'Modified / Tuned Cars' started by PoWeReD By NoS, Jul 5, 2013.
That looks awesome. Love pic #3.
Half of my stock gauges dont work anymore, so I want to create a new plate to put in my stock instrument cluster case, where I can insert aftermarket gauges.
Does anyone know of good brands for gauges?
I want something with a black face and bezel, and blue numbering.
I have found plenty, but its so hard to find a type that has everything I need.
...... Speedo and Tacho, fuel level, temp, voltage, and turbo psi
Something like this
I added an extra hole in my transmission pan. I think the roads in Afghanistan are better maintained than those around here.
Just buy an aim dash.
On which road? When I installed the Pro-Kit on my Genesis, I had to be cautious a lot, the car would scrape easily.
Not sure exactly, went camping Friday/Saturday on the Hiwassee River in TN. Some dips and bumps getting down to the camp site, one of my friends following me back home noticed smoke coming out from the exhaust.
Initially thought it was burning oil from the PCV, so I checked the oil level and road it out for 240 miles. By the time I got back to the house I noticed it shifting harder and could clearly smell burning transmission fluid.
Much to my surprise, the remaining fluid is unburnt and without any debris/metal shavings.
Sourcing a pan tomorrow and picking up the fluid, this will be fun, ZF has very stringent requirements on filling the transmission.
if you guys have one of those machines that hooks into the transmission cooler lines for the love of christ use that.
They look too 'race car'.
The amount of info they have is insane though. My friend has one in his Westfield.
Unfortunately was stranded in my driveway, so I had to fill it by following Ze German vay of villing ze transmission by keeping the transmission temperature between 50 degrees Celsius and 60 degrees Celsius, pumping fluid into the fill/overflow plug while the engine is running (And after running through the gears).
Do you know if it's a Pista or a Strada?
I've been thinking of getting on for the MR2, just cbf with numerous gauges really.
And because racecar
So received my ported throttle body today, and new led dome light. Much quicker throttle response, and the light is waay nicer then my old ebay special.
Took my Hawk HP+'s off. OMG no more squeak. Great for the track but they sounds like a bus driving in traffic. Also noticed my ABS wires were melted....
Run HPS on mine with zero noise.
I believe the plus's are a more aggressive compound which may have something to do with it. Also a shop installed them so that may have something to do with it too.
I would run the Plus if they made them for my calipers, but I did use them front and back on my Mazda6. Only issue I ever had was cold morning squeaks until they came up to temperature.
I think the latter was the culprit. Rotors need to have been machined or replaced first. Then once pads are installed they needed to be bedded, this probably was not done, just backed out of the bay and given back to you.
Several hard braking events from various speeds, without actually coming to a stop, with short cooling intervals between each.
Yeah did the bedding thing when they gave it to me, followed by a HPDE. Should have been bedded fine. I think it was the the install and just the nature of the brakes. I knew they would squeal going into it so it wasnt a bother, just sucked driving someone and seeing them cringe haha.
Not sure which one
Ordered 2013 Equus monoblock calipers, should be in later this week.
Matching rotors are 360mm...
The guy sent me the pics of the calipers to make sure I still wanted them, apparently this 2013 Equus experienced a wheel-off and insurance totaled the car because of that. Minor scuff damage, going to get powdercoated anyway, still a steal at this price.
Oookay. So I went to get the RJM installed and well, the car couldn't get back into gear afterwards, despite near maximum adjustments on the clutch rod I believe it was. Once they adjusted it to be maxxed out then it got into gear but barely. Turns out my flywheel (one of those 2 piece ones) was ripping apart. Drove home, barely, a few days later the G35 couldn't get into gear at all and needed to be towed back to the garage, once a new Exedy Stage 1 clutch and Fidanza single piece flywheel came in.
Just got the car back and uhh... unregistered, how do you adjust this thing? I only see the one turning knob which I can only turn about 1/4 left and 1/4 right, and that's pushing it. When we had the unit out of the car, you could easily compress it with one hand. Now it's super stiff - partly due to the fact it's a Stage 1 clutch but still. RJM site (if I am reading the right part) says it can be adjusted 10 full turns???
Any help would be great...
Here is the adjustment info I am looking at, if it helps whoever may be reading this:
Time for Adjustments:
The full range of the A
FP Adjuster is approximately 10
full turns of the knob from Highest Setting to
the Lowest Setting. The lowest setting is considered 0% AFP and is equivalent to th
e factory pedal. The highest
setting is considered 100% AFP and is simply the maximum adjustment available in this design.
Raising the AFP Setting: (Turn knob LEFT)
Lowers the Initial Friction Point
Increases Pedal Leverage Ratio, making the clutch feel
Widens the Modulation Zone, making the clutch easier to modulate.
Reduces Master Cylinder Stroke.
Lowering the AFP Setting: (Turn knob Right)
Raises the Initial Friction Point
Decreases Pedal Leverage Ratio, making the clutch feel Heavier.
ws the Modulation Zone, making the clutch more on/off & harder to modulate like stock.
Clutch Rod Adjustment: Turning Left (Counter Clockwise)
Lower the Initial Friction Point (Only a few turns of adjustment available in total)
Decreases the overall
pedal stroke length.
Friction point should never be set less than 1â up from the floor. Around 1.5â up is ideal.
Clutch Rod Adjustment: Turning Right (Clockwise)
Raises the Initial Friction Point (Only a few turns of adjustment available in total)
Increases the overall pedal stroke length
Bro, I'm sorry you're having those issues. My adjustment was pretty easy, I just played with the knob until I got it the way I wanted it. On my pedal, behind the rod 'handle' that you spin to adjust, there was a 12mm(IIRC) nut that I played with as well to adjust the pedal further. Also, it sounds like you over tightened the pedal onto the frame that it bolts onto, making the pedal very stiff.
I hope this helps.
Figured it out! Thanks man. I had to loosen the clutch rod nut as you mentioned - it was maxed out after it wouldn't get into gear anymore. I guess the mechanic just left it that way when they installed the new flywheel and clutch. I also had to loosen a black (hard to see unless someone tells you it's there) allen bolt behind the AFP adjuster. Anyway, I've been testing it out around the block and think I've found a balance I like. I shortened the pedal distance a bit, and made it softer with a lower engagement point. 1st to 2nd is not so brutal now. I'll drive it around as is for now, and see if I need to make any changes.
I forgot about the allen wrench in the back. Also, I dk about the G35s, but on the G37 you have set AFP back to zero in order to bleed the clutch.
What kind of flywheel/clutch did you get?
My mechanic installed it so I'm just hoping he did all that <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/smile.gif"></A>
Exeddy Stage 1 clutch
Fidanza single piece flywheel