Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Modified / Tuned Cars' started by PoWeReD By NoS, May 2, 2012.
^ what car?
rookie move. if you just took the engine cover off you'd save more weight.
s54 m coupe
Placing orders for rare parts does not make them rare
He'd save more weight if he took his head off.
Not that you need to be ultra-DTM-light weight for carparks
yeah but I like the look of quality made cf parts
>>can't find on eBay
I can just call up Volvo and have some "rare parts" delivered overnight from Sveeden.
You are truly a ricer.
he'd technically save more weight if he lost his legs.
b..but the bimmerforums <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/sad.gif"></A>
for some reason my posts don't like showing up in here if I post just before a thread needs a new page
And uhh, is Kingsegg Raging Bull?
I heard these are horrible unreliable. True?
And this is very tempting, buuut it's non turbo. Does anyone know of 3000gt's/stealth's ever came twin turbo, FWD? This generation + newer TT AWD Mitsu's are like 30 grand here!
I don't think it'd be any less reliable than that 01 GTI you were looking at earlier. I heard the cooling/radiator is somewhat sensitive on those. It probably already has or will need its ABS module to be replaced if I'm not mistaken, and control arm bushings are also something to look out for.
My friend has one with 170k miles on it and just now had to replace his valve gasket, he's super happy with it.
Edit: Honestly an E36 M3 or even just a 328 would so be something I'd just before ever considering an Eclipse, or an RSX...
I'd much prefer RWD, and I was debating picking one of these up before I bought the 240. But as I've expressed earlier, every german car I've ever worked on I thought was silly. I'm sure I'd get used to it... at the same time I wonder if I just want something newer/cheaper to maintain should something go wrong. I know the newer BMW's/Mini's have them, but do the E36 gen have the stupid rubber jack points on the bottom? And most importantly I wonder how Canadian E36's hold up for rust...
Some other interesting finds (wouldn't consider either, but they would be fun)
I knew I would put the 3000GT bug in your head <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/PnutSpecial.gif"></A>.
No the twin turbo only came on the VR-4 (AWD) models in the US and Canada. Same on the Stealth, R/T Turbo (AWD).
As for the E36, from Car & Driver's M3 Buyers Guide:
Why You Want an E36: The second-gen M3 was born of BMWâs desire to grow the model and the M division as a whole, and as such, it was aimed at the ordinary speed junkie, not the E30âs die-hard enthusiast. A smooth and torquey inline-six replaced the E30âs screaming four, and the new engineâs easy grunt and laid-back vibe matched the E36âs quieter exterior and more comfortable cockpit. The brakes and the suspension components were uprated compared with those of the ordinary 3-series, but the E36 was still a few hundred pounds heavier than the 2800-pound E30.
Choosing Which One: The E36 M3 launched in the U.S. in 1995 with a 240-hp, 3.0-liter inline-six, developed specially for the American market (in fact, BMW wasnât planning on selling the M3 here at all but was ultimately persuaded by an enthusiastsâ petition). This engine was replaced in 1996 with a 3.2-liter version, offering identical hp but 11 more lb-ft of torque at lower rpm.
A host of models was introduced, including the track-oriented 1995-only Lightweightâwhich cut some 225 pounds from the standard carâa convertible, and a four-door sedan. The E36 marked the debut of an automatic transmission in the M3, a five-speed unit from ZF. All told, over 36,000 U.S.-spec examples were sold.
With the exception of the rattly convertible and anticlimactic automatic models, there isnât a bad one in the bunch. A relatively fat production run means that countless colors and options packages are available and that many examples remain in good condition, so donât be afraid to be picky or hound used-car lots.
Watch Out For: Because the E36 shares a great deal of its components with lesser 3-series modelsâmore than any M3 before or sinceâitâs often the friendliest to maintain. The U.S.-spec drivetrain is similar to that of the E36 325i, which means parts are often cheap and easy to come by.
Problem areas are few. Early cars suffered from weak front strut towers, so check that the factory reinforcement plates have been fitted. An Achillesâ heel cooling system means that water pumps and radiators should be considered 60,000-mile consumables. A failure of either can leave you stranded by the side of the road at best and destroy an engine at worst. Head gaskets generally fail between 100,000 and 150,000 miles. High-mileage cars can suffer from failed differentials above 100,000 miles; the U.S.-spec diff is smaller than the European one and can run hot, popping bearings and breaking flanges. Rust is commonly found on fender bottoms, in the bottoms of the doors, and on the edges of the trunklid.
I was lucky to find a vendor that still had one in stock. It's one of the few cf covers ever produced for the s54 that uses a high quality dry pre-preg process, as apposed to cheap wavy wet overlay process you find on ebay and most sites.
w00t dry pre-pregged a girl once.
Always loved the 3000gt. They really are hard to ignore, I almost got run over once by a white latest gen VR4. What a glorious way to go that would have been, haha. But I hear for the VR4 models, it's not uncommon for owners to have extra transmissions just kicking around, in case theirs blow.
I suppose what I could do, with the masses of JDM parts/cars coming over, is just swap in a JDM TT motor, though I am not sure if this would be problematic/worth it. http://jdmsource.ca/products.php?jdm-mitsubishi-6g72tt-gto-stealth&cPath=9&osCsid=32mdmr1ns9rq4valpekfbckkr4 <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/sad.gif"></A>
Thanks for the E36 info. "Rust is commonly found on fender bottoms, in the bottoms of the doors, and on the edges of the trunklid" - not bad, buuut: "Early cars suffered from weak front strut towers". If I do end up seeing on of these, I'll definitely check those spots out.
Some more. Now on page 100 of kijiji.
It may have two extra doors but, they are two extra doors of awesome!
Sucks he has no pictures, the sixth gen Galant VR-4 was no looker, but with 237 BHP, turbo, AWD and 4WS. Who could ask for more?
If only the next generation Galant VR4 made it here. I can import a JDM one for about 8 grand, and they're actually a looker. But, they're RHD.
Anyways, some more of interest:
those rubber jack points are awesome.
the E36's hold up decently to rust but you are buying an older car so bring a magnet when you go to look at any car.
the 3000/stealth does have a twin turbo model and they're far easier to work on then the non turbo models.
I've seen multiple fall off, and when I was doing a rim change on my friends '06 325, I had to lift the car on ramps just to get my jack to fit under the rubber things. And the car wasn't even lowered.
If they were smaller and didn't fall off so easy, I'd love them.
Anyways, have you had to do much work on 3000gt/stealths, TSCM? I haven't heard the best of things for their transmissions...well, on the turbo cars at least.
when those ribber bits fall off a hockey puck on a jack is the perfect size to replace them.
I've worked on a 3000GT turbo 4 wheel steer and a normal stealth. the engines can be troublesome as well as the transmissions. they have a timing belt that uses the engine oil to keep tension on it. so if the oil wasn't changed properly those devices filled with sludge/failed and destroyed the engine.