DSLR Macro lenses (second hand, Adorama)

Discussion in 'General Chat' started by SL King, Feb 12, 2011.

  1. OK I've more or less decided on a second hand 40D but a new Canon 100mm f2.8 macro and new Canon MR-14EX ring flash because I can't find second hand ones of either.

    The thing is I'm not sure about the "normal" vs "L-series" 100mm f2.8m lens, there is a substantial price difference (almost double) and I'm told that because in macro I will be using a short shutter speed, there isn't much benefit to getting the L series Image Stabiliser lens.
    What do you think?

    Also what kind of camera bag should I get? Just a basic one I guess..
     
  2. L glass is pretty much #$%#ing epic afaik
     
  3. same reason you'd get a full frame for anything else. resolution (real resolution, not pixels lol), tonal differentiation.

    you're not throwing away magnification (lol look up what magnification is) or working distance. You get the proper focal length for your sensor size and you're all set.
     
  4. Oh and for the Aussies, what is your take on buying grey imports here?
     
  5. Maybe you should try macro before giving us your uninformed opinion.
    Technically speaking, the magnification doesn't change because the lens is the same.

    However, at a given ratio of magnification (let's say 1:1), the size of the frame is the size of the area able to be photographed. On a full frame, a 36X24mm area is what is photographed at 1:1. On a APS-C camera, with the same lens at the same magnification, a smaller area (that of the size of a APS-C sensor) fills the frame.

    As for working distance, if you had a object that would fill the 36X24 frame on a full frame camera, you would use a 1:1 magnification ratio, which is pretty much at the extreme end of the focus range of most macro lenses. To fill the frame on a APS camera, you don't need as much magnification, you don't have to set your focus to the extreme end of the range, and thus are further away...that's working distance. More working distance is a good thing.

    You were also suggesting that he get a used original 5D. While it's a great camera, it's not well suited to macro work, and doesn't have the pixel pitch of it's contemporary APS cameras, let alone modern equivalents.
    A lot of the people into macro photography use APS-C cameras, even if they have a 5D or 1Ds in their arsenal, simply because it's more suitable to the task at hand, and gives them a little extra range.

    Finally, why don't you post one of your macro shots. If you're adamant that I know nothing, prove that you do.
     
  6. L glass is for the most part excellent. The difference between the L and non-L 100mm macro is down to build quality and stabilisation. The non-L has excellent image quality and does most of what the L does.

    I'd suggest getting the non-L one.

    If you have a flash, then shutter speed is only useful for ambient light, and even then, there needs to be a lot of it to have an effect on the image. If you use flash, set the shutter speed close to the sync speed (1/250 on 40D I think) and forget about ambient light. A flash will throw out most of it's lighting power within that time, so there's no need for anything slower. Stabilisation is a nice thing to have, but it won't really be affecting the quality of the image due to reducing movement.
     
  7. #32 SL King, Feb 17, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 25, 2016
    OK I've ordered my second hand 40D from Adorama and will get the non-L canon 100mm f2.8 lens tomorrow. That I'll be getting new as well as the MR-14EX ring flash.

    Now I need a CF card and probably an international power adaptor for the body charger.

    Any suggestions for brands of CF cards? I won't be doing a whole lot of shooting so I guess I won't need the most expensive one, I can get an 8GB 60MB/s for AUD $56:

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SanDisk-8G-Extreme-Compact-Flash-CF-8GB-card-60mb-S-/140510079148?pt=AU_Electronics_Memory_Cards&hash=item20b70da8ac

    Anything else I'm missing? I've read about a lens polariser, to reduce glare and also protect the glass - is that necessary for macro photography?
     
  8. get a UV filter. don't use a polarizor to protect the front element... they're pretty expensive. a cheap UV filter will be just fine


    and the SanDisk Extreme cards are great.
     
  9. Pretty much this.
    A polariser also cuts a lot of light and won't really make a noticeable difference to images taken using flash.

    Second the Sandisk part.
     
  10. The gear all came today, which was bloody quick! Just need to get an international adaptor for the battery charger. I'm testing it out a supplied battery, hard to do without an instruction manual or any experience with canon digital SLRs... it's automatically going to a timer setting when I shoot which is annoying.. I'll work it out soon after reading an online manual.
    Otherwise so far so good!
     

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