MR2 Turbo buildup

Discussion in 'Asian Forums' started by 962RACER, Aug 11, 2008.

  1. for those of you who still remember, a friend of mine is importing a 2nd gen mr2 turbo gt. i want to know if anyone here has personal experience with the car (owned one, worked on them) and can give us some detailed hints on some questions.

    we wanna modify the car on stock turbo and fuel system for now. this is a 245hp 94 model car with the 440cc injectors and the smaller ct20 ceramic turbo. any pointers on weak spots, cheap great mods(aside from the obvious boost controller, exhaust, downpipe etc) and anything else relevant.
     
  2. Aside from basic mods (exhaust, intake, boost controller, ECU, Etc.) I don't think you're going to need to do anything else before you hit the limit imposed by the stock turbo and fuel system. Perhaps someone knows better than that, but I believe that's the case with the 3SGTE
     
  3. i know the engine very well, i need detailed info on it from someone with experience modding it. this is supposed to be a mild street and occasional auto x car running on stock turbo (ct20) turbo. what i wanted to specifically know is limits of the block, stock pistons, rods, head etc, potential pitfalls and shit like that. apparently the stock block is robust but can have stress cracks on # 2 and 3 when making serious power(400+hp). stock head is good, 3rd gen engines come without the tvis system(they have a conventional 4 runner plenum that is short and breathes better) and their larger intake valves, lower compression(8.5 vs. 8.8) and larger injectors make them better bases for performance buildups.

    things we plan to do are a s follows:

    standalone engine management (stock ecu is of high quality but a pain to overide due to toyotas many safety provisions, all the biggyback shit will add up to the price of an entry level or mid range ems)

    run 15-18psi on stock ct20(stock boost on the j-spec 3rd gen 3sgte is 13 psi as opposed to 10 for the ct26 equipped and 7 for the north american cars)

    electronic exhaust bypass(car currently has aftermarket exhaust)

    twin disk clutch (os geiken probably, thankfully the tranny is already equipped with an lsd)

    suspension and brake mods etc...

    power levels we expect are in the 230-240whp range hopefully, thats about the limit of the ct20 running around 18psi.

    for anything more than this, we are looking at a fully built engine (rods, pistons, camshafts, metal head gasket, bigger fuel system etc) if we want reliability which we do.
     
  4. 230-240whp is reasonably easy to get. that should be fine on the stock fuel system, no?

    I'd say consider upgrading the turbo to a more modern unit. A tubular manifold coupled to a moderately sized modern ball-bearing turbo should be just as if not more responsive, while giving you more top end power if you want it.
     
  5. You might be able to get by without any computer mods and just going with an adjustable rising fuel pressure regulator from BEGi. You dont want to run tons of power with that because of not being able to adjust ignition, but I think with your power goals it would be fine. This is talking from experience with miatas so I have no idea if it would work on a toyota
     
  6. I did a 240 whp 250w tq mr2, but I overbuilt mine:

    Modified FPR
    ROM tune from ATS racing
    CT27 (46 trim ct26) 15PSI
    TKo exhaust
    Cometic MLS head gasket
    ARP head studs
    Manual boost controller
    NGk plugs

    15 psi is about as high as you want to go with a ct-26 and a stock fuel system, so im not sure what you wanna do with a ct16 You dont need the hassle of a piggy back if you are doing a mild tune, go to atsracing.com and look into the rom tune.

     
  7. I'm not sure if tou want any suspension advice but don't buy an ST front sway bar. Most brands give you 7/8 front and rear but ST gives you a 15/16 front bar. I bought the ST bars because I already had ST springs and now my car understeers even though the front tires are the same size as the rears (225/45-15). I'm thinking about spending another ~$175 US to buy a 7/8 front bar.
     
  8. Yeah I prefered the stock front swaybar with a trd rear. I added the Trd front and it understeered considerably more.
     
  9. How are you getting a JDM 1994 into Canada? Are you waiting until next year?
     
  10. I remember fizzbit had an amazing blue one, dunno if he's still around here though.
     
  11. Man... I used to know so much about this stuff... like, everything. Now I've forgotten a ton of it. <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/sad.gif"></A>
     
  12. its a november 93 car, which makes it a 94 model but importable by november. the car is being worked on for the regular maintenance stuff(water pump, gaskets etc) right now.
     
  13. heres the thing. the 3rd gen sw20 in japan has a few key differences that make it a better base car to modify than the previous generation. its got 440cc injectors, simple intake plenum without tvis, larger intake valves, lower compression and a ceramic turbine that can hold higher boost. from what ive read up on the car, the ct20 is apparently good for over 250whp with proper tuning and bolt ons so hopefully well get some good power out of it without a larger turbo. wed like to keep the ct20 for its great response and quick spool(and its free<A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/wink.gif"></A>).
     
  14.  
  15. I currently have like 1.5GB of MR2 files on my computer. Photos (of cars, parts, diagrams, illustrations, etc), videos, PDFs, other documents, etc (which I haven't touched in probably like 2 years). I still want to get another MKII Turbo, but I also REALLY want to do an MK1.5 with a stripped out interior and a bunch of homebrewed mods.
     
  16. share the wealth<A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/wink.gif"></A>.
     
  17. axe dahldrin
     
  18. Save yourself time. Ditch the engine and put in a 3.0 Litre V6 Windom engine in it. Then add boost...
     
  19. so we dynoed the car and results were alright. 195whp and 195wtq. the turbo would overboost a little bit, reaching 15 psi instead of the stock 13 and then would flatten to 14.5 past 5500rpm which is a bit odd. however, the true story is in the air fuel ratio. the afr is good till around turbo spool and then is still lean enough till around 4000rpm, but then it goes from around 12 to 1 to 10.1 to 1 until the revv limiter kicks. so we know the computer is throwing excessive fuel at the car, specially into boost at higher revvs and the overboosting might have a relation. we're thinking of going with a standalone ems to bypass all these issues, the piggyback route can get messy with this particular computer.

    after the new ems and a homemade high flow intake (4" k and n filter) we hope to get some nice figures, maybe 250whp at 18psi with 94 pump gas.

    we now know the struts are 26 way adjustable TEINs will pillowball adjustable camber mounts. we fiddled around a bit, found a nice street setup so far. next is the ride height, it's currently around stock, maybe even higher, so well have to adjust that too.
     
  20. #20 Da Fizza, Jun 11, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 25, 2016
    indeed i did... although i got rid of the car back in 05.

    Im now the owner of another rev 3 turbo as per my other thread.

    I also have Tein Super Street on the fronts and Tein HA on the rear. Excellent handling qualities even if the ride is a bit harsh over pot holes etc...

    So im presuming you got a Jap RHD import then? I was just abotu to p/x my current black one with a Yellow one a mate (trader) has just got in but just missed out on it in the end.

    I know a few people running about 330ish on stock internals and i am led to believe that you shouldnt take it much more than about 340 without getting a forged rebuiled with uprated pistons and camshaft etc.

    The best electronic management units for the 3SGTE are the Apexi FC commander which controls your fuel/boost/also has a inbuilt knock sensor etc.

    Get on this forum as it will have all the info you will ever need.

    www.imoc.co.uk

    Quite a few chaps ont here running circa 400/500bhp tubbies (we in the uk refer to the mr2 turbo's as tubbies),

    Regards
    Fizz
     
  21. timmy that is off topic
     
  22. Hmm ceramic turbos arent the best. Pain in the arse to work in MR2s engine bays
     
  23. i havent heard about issues with the ct20b, its a reliable turbo, oil and water cooled. the engine bay isnt that bad on this model, it doesnt have an afm or a tvis system.
     

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