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Discussion in 'General Chat' started by het, Dec 4, 2008.
man shuddup my mom thinks im handsome
i want to fall forward just looking at that
slick ride bro
OH GOD I NEED MORE MONEY
THE NEXT TIME YOU POST A NON-DRIVE SIDE PICTURE I'M GOING TO DRIVE TO YOUR HOUSE AND PISS IN YOUR EYES
get #$%#ed, it's peter crouch!
haha someone give me a link to the following Pshop memes
Bezerk dancing woman
Ho on motorbike
that frame looks like serious business, what's the brand?
feel better kid
yeah still in front of all my other crap and at a stupid angle but hey #$%# you #$%#ablojob
gimme your address. i'm cumming
what do you think/
yuck no. way too expensive and it's aluminum.
steel is real.
what would be the top price you'd pay for that bike? why?
Remember those are euro prices, including tax.
I don't know mtb that well, but it just seems a bit more expensive than I'd see here.
Got the Kona Paddy Wagon I posted about before. It came with 46t chainring and 16t cog and freewheel. This setup seems ok for normal riding, but I have to pedal too quickly to get any real speed. I can only imagine what the stock 42/16 would be like. Couple questions, first of all how hard is it to change the cog and freewheel. Also, when you flip around the wheel to get to the freewheel, can you just mark where it was in the dropouts to keep the correct chain tension?
wow <A BORDER="0" HREF="http://www.supercars.net/PitLane?displayFAQ=y"><IMG BORDER="0" SRC="pitlane/emoticons/amazed.gif"></A>
how much you pay for that? I saw an ad for one for $400.
$500, couldn't tell any difference from new in terms of condition.
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To change a cog, you need two special tools; you need a lockring tool to remove the lockring that holds the cog in place and you need a chain whip to remove the cog. If you have never done this before, I would recommend having someone experienced show you how to do it so you don't strip the teeth on the lockring or strip the threads on the hub when threading the cog back onto the hub. As far as keeping correct chain tension is concerned, marking the dropouts isn't necessary. All you really need to do is pull the wheel back until it is fairly taught and make sure the wheel is spaced evenly on the dropouts. You'll know you have proper tension on the chain when the chain has 1" of play when pulled up and down. NOT 1" up and 1" down, 1" total or less. Over tensioning the chain will make it a bit noisy and can stretch the links if over tensioned.
Any other questions?
Ok cool, thanks. When I change the cog, I'll probably have to take out a link of the chain if I can't just slide it back enough right? Anyways I'm not changing to harder gearing until I get back into some kind of shape, at least better than my no-physical-activity-all-winter-long current state. And at that time I guess I might put a better freewheel too, since apparently the one the paddy wagon comes with is crap. That with a chainwhip too?
And yeah I've got one bike mechanice friend so I'll get him to show me.
I guess the other question I want to ask is what kind of gearing do you have, for various situations?
When choosing a gearing I take two things into account; gear ratio and skid patches.
As I am sure you are aware, gearing is just a function of the front chainring and the rear cog. There are other numbers some people use like gear inches and gain ratio, but we can ignore those for now. The ideal gear ratio is about 3:1. For your 46t front chainring, a 16t/15t works well because it falls very close to the magic 3:1. Now, depending on what you want to do you can stray quite a bit from this ideal. If you live in a particularly hilly area or just really like to spin, you can bump up to a larger rear cog, say 17t or 18t. This will dramatically reduce your top speed but make hills and accelerating from rest much easier. Also, you will be able to learn to skid, track stand and do many other tricks significantly easier with a shorter gearing. For more distance riding, you'll probably want a bit taller gearing, using a 14t would be perfect. Personally, I have always had strong enough legs to mash a tall gearing regardless of terrain so I often run 49:15m or 3.3:1 ratio. More recently I have been trying to learn more efficient spinning techniques, and I have switched to a 49:18 or 2.7:1 ratio. I still am able to do distance, I just have to spin A LOT more to keep up my speed. It really boils down to a matter of tastes but any gearing will work as long as you are between 3.3-2.7:1
The other reasoning behind choosing a gearing is creating skid patches. As I do not use a brake, there are only a few options for effectively slowing down on my bike. I can: a) fight the inertia and just slow my speed; b) skid; c) hop skid. I generally just fight against the pedals because I like having tires last more than a month. But, I still do skid often enough to where my gearing plays an important factor in tire wear. My 49t front chainring is really helpful in this aspect as there are no cogs (except a 14t) that really kill my number of skid patches. Your number of skid patches are determined by the instances when your feet are at skid position and the relative tire position. That is to say when you spin one full revolution of the pedals and return to the skid position, your tire is in a different orientation than it was originally (due to the gearing). With a 49:18, I have 18 different skid patches on my rear tire because the gearing of the 18t is not divisible in the 49 (actually I have 36 skid patches because I am an ambidextrous skidder - but I don't feel like explaining this right now). On your 46t, you really needn't worry either because even if a rear cog is divisible, you still have PLENTY of patches.
So really, you should chose a gearing based on what type of riding you do and, unless your bike is a serious trick bike or a velodrome machine, stay between 2.7:1 and 3.3:1 gear ratio.
Thanks for the long response. I was thinking that a 14t would do the trick. I just can't go quite fast enough without spinning really fast. And I guess you forgot my other question, after writing that long, and helpful, answer: Will I have to change the length of my chain if I change to a 14t cog?
And don't worry, I've read up about skidding and now about that wacky ambidextrous stuff. I've got two brakes though, although I try not to use them. Rubs the paint of the wheels.